Best meal I ever ate? Emilia Romagna. Best charcuterie plate I ever ate? Emilia Romagna. Best gelato I ever ate? Emilia Romagna. Emilia Romagna is THE foodie destination in Italy. 

Yet somehow, nobody seems to know about it. 

Italy is such a well-known destination with iconic regions like the Dolomites, Cinque Terre and Tuscany. Emilia-Romagna, often celebrated as Italy’s true “foodie capital”. This region is the birthplace of some of the Italy’s most iconic foods: Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and traditional balsamic vinegar from Modena. But it doesn’t have nearly the same fame and notoriety as others areas in Italy. 

Emilia Romagna offers a real slice of Italian life that is deliciously off the beaten path.

As a foodie traveler myself, I was pumped to experience all the culinary adventures in Emilia Romagna. Understandably, the foodiest region in Europe's foodiest country was high on my destination bucket list. Spending a few days in this agricultural region means indulging in all of these elements, from world-class meals to intimate tours of local producers. After planning a lovely long-weekend in Emilia Romagna, I am sharing all the foodie insights and unique experiences to try (and taste!) in Italy’s foodiest region.

Everything You Need To Know About Emilia Romagna, Italy’s Foodie Capital

Why Visit Emilia Romagna?

With so many nice regions of Italy to choose from, Emilia Romagna isn’t the typical choice when it comes to planning an Italian vacation. You might be asking yourself – where is this place, and why the heck is this blogger writing a whole itinerary about visiting it? I wouldn’t blame you! Which is why I should probably explain why I think Emilia Romagna is worth it, over say, Sicily, Lake Como or Tuscany even. 

Emilia Romagna is the Italian state that gave birth to iconic Italian foods like Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma, and traditional Bolognese ragù. Yes, all of those came from this region. It is often celebrated as the heart of Italian culinary tradition. For foodie travelers, I would dare say Emilia Romagna is the most important region in Italy to visit (okay, and maybe Tuscany too). 

Now how did I come to plan a whole 5 day trip to Emilia Romagna? Well, Netflix. 

The small town of Modena was the entire inspiration for my trip to Emilia Romagna. My husband and I love the show Chef’s Table on Netflix. One of our favorite episodes is about Massimo Bottura, an especially charming chef from – you guessed it – Modena Italy. As bonafide foodies, we have eaten at a few other chef’s restaurants from the show like Alinea in Chicago and Pujol in Mexico City. 

So when we decided to move to Germany in 2019, I knew we had to go to Osteria Francescana. It was actually the first trip I planned…. one month before we even moved to Europe. That’s right–I planned our trip to Emilia Romagna before I even finished planning our move to Germany.

Where is Emilia Romagna?

Emilia-Romagna is located in northern Italy, stretching from the Apennine Mountains in the south to the Po River in the north. It borders Liguria to the west, Tuscany to the southwest, and the regions of Lombardy and Veneto to the north and northeast, with the Adriatic Sea forming its eastern boundary. The region is divided into Emilia, with cities like Parma and Modena, known for artisanal production, and Romagna, home to vibrant coastal towns like Rimini and Ravenna.

Travel Logistics in Emilia Romagna

Arrival in Emilia Romagna

Bologna is highly accessible, whether you’re coming from within Italy or from abroad. For international visitors, Bologna Guglielmo Marconi Airport (BLQ) offers direct flights from major European hubs. Although many travelers may prefer to fly into larger airports like Rome or Milan and connect to Bologna via Italy’s excellent rail network. 

For those traveling within Italy, Bologna’s central location makes it a train hub. There are many direct, high-speed connections to most major Italian cities. Intercity trains are fast, taking only 45 minutes from Florence and around 2 hours from Rome. Regional trains offer more flexibility at a slower pace. Book your high-speed train tickets in advance through Trenitalia for the best rates. Be sure to look for “Bologna Centrale” as your destination. 

How to Get Around Emilia Romagna

Although it is possible to travel from city to city via train, we decided to rent a car after leaving Bologna, because we wanted to get out into the countryside. Having a rental car makes visits to farms and producers much easier. Plus, it allows you the flexibility to pull off the road when you see a scenic spot or a particularly alluring cheese stand, both of which happened to us. It is relatively safe and easy to drive in Emilia Romagna. Thankfully, the terrain isn’t rugged, so you can pretty easily function with just a basic sedan.

Ultimate Foodie Itinerary for 5 Days in Emilia Romagna

Day 1: Bologna

For most people arriving from international destinations, Bologna is where you will begin your trip in Emilia Romagna. I think that Bologna is one of Italy’s most underrated cities. It is not a popular tourist destination, and that is such a benefit in a country that bears a burden from overtourism. Bologna is a refreshing escape from the hoards of tourists in nearby Venice and Florence, while still offering a plethora of interesting things to explore, and more importantly, delicious things to eat! 

While you could hit Bologna’s touristic highlights in a day, I think two days is the sweet spot for savoring the city’s unique rhythm and deep-rooted food culture. This timeframe lets you take in the essentials but also leaves enough time to join a food tour or two. To avoid this post getting too lengthy, I have a separate blog post highlighting all of the top things to see & do in Bologna. 

Foodie Experiences to Try in Bologna:

• Quadrilatero District: bustling marketplace since Roman times. Vendors showcase the best of Emilia-Romagna’s renowned culinary heritage—from fresh pasta and Parmigiano Reggiano to cured meats and local wines. 
• Bologna Food Tour: You will taste local specialties such as Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Bolognese ragu, and mortadella. The tour begins with a gourmet coffee, followed by visits to farmer’s markets. Then enjoy a meet-and-greet with sfoglinas (pasta makers) to see how tortellini are made.
• Pizzeria Spaccanapoli: Located on Via San Vitale, this was recommended to me by a friend who said it was the best pizza in Bologna. I absolutely loved it! The dough and sauce are perfection, so any other toppings you get will only improve what is already there! 
• La Traviata: Bolognese, or colloquially called ‘ragu, is always on the menu here and it is delicious. Not in the mood? Ask for either the tortelloni alla zucca (pumpkin tortelloni) which comes glazed in balsamic vinegar or the cheese-filled gnocchi, both of which are “off-menu” but almost always available. Make sure you call for a reservation a day or two in advance, because this place fills up. 
• Cremeria Funivia: it is awesome! No other way to say it. You can customize the flavor and toppings of their artisanal gelatos to create the perfect pair. My husband got the Alice, which consists of mascarpone gelato with melted dark chocolate at the bottom of the cone. I had the incredible Cable Car Pie, which is chocolate cake stirred together with your flavor of choice.

Day 2: Cooking Class

For your second day in Bologna, I would recommend getting out of the city for a true Italian foodie experience—a pasta-making class with an Italian nonna! Booked through Airbnb Experiences, this “Cook Pasta with Grandma” will take most of the day – but it is worth it! The class starts with a 9AM pickup near Bologna’s main train station. After a scenic 30-minute drive into the countryside, you’ll arrive at a beautiful home where the two hosts, Pia & Vittoria, greet you with a pot of fresh coffee to chat about their background, personal story, and of course, cooking. 

You’ll learn how to make a few dishes, including the region’s iconic ragù bolognese and a dessert. Walking through the steps of dough preparation, you’ll create your own pasta (usually tortelloni, tagliatelle and ravioli). The 5-hour, hands-on class is both fun and authentic, as Pia, who speaks only Italian, teaches you traditional pasta-making techniques with translation help from her charming family and neighbors.

You’ll return to Bologna probably ready for a nap after a long day of cooking and chatting. Have a rest, and head back out in the city around sunset. Bologna is absolutely beautiful at golden hour, when the sun enhances the city’s already warm paint colors.

One of the best places to admire the sunset is at the top of San Luca hill at Madonna di San Luca. The walk to San Luca is one of the popular things for tourists to do, so it might be crowded, but it’s worth it because the entire walk there is covered in porticoes. It is also beloved by locals' who often pack a small picnic basket to bring along. Regardless of rainy weather or not, you can walk up because you’ll be shielded from the elements! 

Day 3: Modena

Like any good Italian city, Modena is a nice place to wander around without much of an agenda. The streets are much quieter than Bologna and I found the architecture to be much cuter and more pristine. Visit the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Modena Cathedral, an impressive example of Romanesque architecture. Don’t miss a climb up Ghirlandina Tower for a panoramic view of Modena’s charming rooftops and surrounding countryside. Grab a scoop of very traditional gelato at Emilia Cremeria to power your walk around town. 

If you are interested in sports cars, consider a quick visit to the Museo Ferrari outside of Modena. Famed sportscar mogul Enzo Ferrari was born in this region, and his childhood home has been turned into a museum with tons of memorabilia. I have recently become a fan of Formula 1 (thanks to yet another Netflix docuseries), and I actually went to the Emilia Romagna Grand Prix in Imola this year!

Foodie Experiences to Try in Modena:

• Mercado Albinelli: spectacular fresh food & farmers market. Truly one of my favorite things to do while traveling is visit food markets. This market is filled to the brim with a wide assortment of beautifully displayed local produce, cheese, and meat. 
• Cavedoni Balsamic Vinegar Tour: Balsamic vinegar is one of the most important and famous products from Emilia Romagna. A must-try food while traveling in Modena. On this tour, you’ll visit the vineyards and see all the stages of vinegar production, from the pressing of grapes to the barrel aging. 
• Acetaia Del San Donnino: If you don’t want a full tour, pop into this balsamic vinegar shop for a quick sample. It is one of the most famous Balsamic vinegar producers boasting an assortment of celebrity clients
• Osteria Francescana: The whole reason for our trip! Truly an unforgettable dinner at Chef Massimo Bottura’s 3 Michelin star restaurant. I’ve got a whole separate blog post here about our experience at Osteria Francescana, including the cost, reservation process, etc. 
• Franceschetta58: If you weren’t able to get a reservation but still want to try Bottura’s food, visit the more relaxed bistro in Modena, which offers an exceptional yet casual dining experience.

Day 4: Truffle Hunt

One of Emilia Romagna’s most unique culinary products is truffles. Particularly white truffles, although black truffles also exist in this area. Truffles, which cannot be easily cultivated, grow naturally in the wild. They are found most typically near the roots of certain tree species under damp conditions. Historically, pigs were used to hunt out this wild fungi, but a little too much of the product was being consumed by the working animals. Nowadays, most truffle hunting is done with dogs. Certain species of dogs are most commonly used in truffle hunting, and they are trained from birth to hunt for the fragrance of the truffle. 

Accompanied by a 3rd generation truffle hunter from Oressea Farms, we set out for a truffle hunt with their specially trained dogs. Oressea has private land which they use to hunt truffles. 

Hunting for truffles is like any other kind of hunting – you are not guaranteed to find truffles! You could be out there for hours without finding anything. The dog will lead the way, sniffing out the coveted truffles hidden underground. All of a sudden, the dog will bolt away and start digging beneath a tree. Then the owner will run over and remove the truffle from the ground. Go behind-the-scenes of our Tuscany truffle hunt with my TikTok video about the experience. 

The thrill of finding these rare fungi in their natural habitat is only matched by the anticipation of tasting them. After the hunt, we brought home our truffle bounty, and enjoyed a truffle-themed menu. Our menu included a baked truffle egg souffle, truffle tagliolini, crusted truffle lamb, and finally a sweet truffle panna cotta. Quite the truffle feast!

Day 5: Parma

For your final day in Emilia Romagna, learn the ins and outs of two of the region's most famous products – prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano. Parma is the primary hub for both products, so doing a full day of sampling and eating is in order! 

You can find highly rated group tours which include both cheese and meat stops, like this biking tour or this tour by a cheese producer on AirBnb, or you can visit a specific farm using the index from the cheese DOP consortium and from the ham DOP consortium. 

Parmigiano-Reggiano Tour

Famed for its salty, umami taste and hard, crumbly texture, Parmigiano-Reggiano is actually one of the most counterfeited food products in the world (along with olive oil). True Parmigiano-Reggiano is very pure. The official Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese wheels must carry a DOP stamp on their rind to certify validity. 

Steps of Parmigiano Reggiano Production

1. The only ingredients added to the milk prior to aging are salt and enzymes.
2. The cheese is given a series of salt water baths during its first few weeks before it is placed on an aging shelf in a cold case. 
3. Wheels of cheese will be aged for a minimum of 12 months up to 36 months. The younger the cheese, the more soft and velvety it will be. The oldest Parmigiano-Reggianos will be dense, grainy and crumbly with a strong flavor. 

A traditional wheel of Parmigiano Reggiano is 18 inches wide and 9 inches tall clocking in at nearly 90 pounds. Parmigiano Reggiano has a low fat content and high-crystallization, which makes it more challenging to melt and cook with, so you are most likely to see Parmigiano-Reggiano used as a freshly grated topping or on a charcuterie plate with other regional specialities.

Prosciutto di Parma Tour

Transitioning to the meat products of Emilia Romagna, the salty, fatty and infamous cured meat Prosciutto also calls Parma its home. In order to get the official DOP stamp, salt can be the only ingredient used in the curing process and all other chemicals are forbidden. This means that all the flavor variation you taste in Prosciutto comes from two factors -- the diet of the animal and the microclimate in which it is aged. 

The quality and taste of the meat is entirely dependent on the diet of the pig. We tasted some prosciutto that was grassy or nutty, flavor profiles which are cultivated by the farmers who raise the pigs. Emilia Romanga has a distinct microclimate that is caused by the air rushing over the Apennine Mountains along the Tuscan coast. Any microparticles or nutrients carried by this wind can also impact the flavor of the meat to have notes of olive, pine or chestnut.

Steps of Prosciutto Production

1. Prosciutto is made by rubbing sea salt onto the hind pork legs
2. Then, the meat is aged in a cold case for at least 12 months. Some might be aged all the way up to 36 months.

Where to Stay in Emilia Romagna

One of the things I knew that I wanted to do on my long weekend in Emilia Romagna was to connect with the actual farming and production process of the incredible foods that I was eating. The people and process behind the food ARE the food, so seeing how food comes to your plate is critically important to understanding the interconnectedness of people and planet. 

A great way to do that is through an Agritourism Hotel. We opted to stay at two Agritourism hotels -- one outside of Modena and one outside of Parma, because we wanted to see a few different products and production methods. 

Balsamic Vinegar Agritourism Hotel

Opera 2.0 Hotel is farm and winery where DOP balsamic vinegar is produced. The farm sits on a stunning piece of land outside of Modena. The winding gravel road up to the farm is beautiful with rolling Italian countryside. Sit back and admire out the window as you drive through tiny clusters of homes. Once you arrive, the sleek open concept lobby opens out onto a 180 degree terrace overlooking the vineyards. Even on a cloudy day like the one we had, it was gorgeous.

As you walk down one of the main hallways of rooms at Opera 2.0, you enter the vinegar loft, which you’ll recognize right away from the strong yet surprisingly pleasant smell. It is unmistakable. Balsamic vinegar requires open air fermentation in ventilated dark rooms, a feature which Opera 2.0 really leans into.

The onsite restaurant offers a tasting menu featuring culinary highlights from the region, and their fully stocked breakfast buffet is a must try, featuring an abundance of local charcuterie products, cheese, bread and housemade jellies. You can learn all about the balsamic vinegar process on their guided tours of the loft. 

Culatello Agritourism Hotel

Antica Corte Pallavicina Relais was our second agritourism experience in Emilia Romagna. It was a completely different experience, but no less wonderful. Built into a 1700s farmhouse outside of Parma, this historically decorated home feels like stepping into a Van Gogh painting. This fully functioning farm produces an assortment of fruits and vegetables. But the real star of the show is their Culatello aging room and museum in the cellar. 

Culatello, the lesser known big brother of Prosciutto, is the real kingpin of the northern Italy cold cuts. It is considered to be the most prized (and expensive) of all the cured meats in Emilia Romagna.

At Antica Corte, they age hundreds of culatello cuts per year. The result is a buttery, briney and delightful charcuterie product that has been perfected over generations of skilled butchers. Once you’ve gotten a tour of the aging room, you can also sample Culatello in all its glory at the Michelin starred restaurant inside the hotel.

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Have thoughts or questions about Emilia Romagna? Tell me in the comments!